Surfing the Wave

I watched my first “surfing movie” last night, Thicker Than Water, thanks to our friend N.C., who comes from a surfing family in Donegal.  Not much in the way of plot, but deeply calming—mellow music and image after image of surfers finding stillness and poise in the midst of intense, dramatic waves.  I’m sure that children would benefit from watching something like this, instead of cartoons, video games, or the Wiggles.  After all, we come from water, and I’m sure that we remember it at some level of our being.

Wondering when surfing was discovered, I suddenly had this thought:  a surfer is the fulfillment of a wave's nature.  For billions of years, waves have presented themselves, over and over again, as if waiting for someone to discover their potential, someone to dance with them, someone to accept their extraordinary offer.  My partner Andrew said, "the surfer is the wave becoming conscious of itself".